Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Cambodia

24-27 November 2011

I had booked the bus to Phnom Penh through Kim's Hotel, it cost $10USD and was estimated to take around 6 hours. There are flights available, but I wanted to make the most of seeing the country side. Plus who could argue with $10? 

I was picked up from the hotel around 7am, and taking to the bus and given my assigned seat. There were a few other westerners on the bus, but not that many. Gladly I was sitting next to a local girl who spoke english, so she would inform me if we had to get off because we were at the border, or if we were stopping on one of the many food/toilet breaks they like to throw in. 


View from bus in Cambodia






The border crossing was no great hassle at all, and the the bus driver took your passport and money for the Cambodian visa, and filled in the forms required and you got your passport back when you had it stamped. You really noticed it once you had crossed the border. Vietnam had been like a city the whole way to the border, hardly seeing any farm land, it was continuously shop after shop, and still hundreds of scooters. Once you got in to Cambodia, there were a few random casino's at the border (that did not look very appealing at all) and lots of farm land. We made our first stop on the bus, and having started out so early, I was starving. Hunger quickly took back seat as I walked up to the food counter, and there were about half a dozen cooked dishes, with who knew what in them, and the person serving you probably wouldn't be able to tell you - even if they could speak english. I eventually settled on a pineapple. I didn't bother stocking up on water either. Walking in to check out the toilets made me realise I would rather die dehydrated than have to use the toilet. Always carry tissues and hand sanitizer with you in Asian countries!!!!! Even if you don't use toilets in rural Cambodia, you will definitely need these regardless of where you could be. 
Passing some houses on the bus


The driving on these buses can leave you at your wits end. You know when the driver is beeping his horn, the situation is probably likely that you are passing another car/truck/bus, and there is an oncoming vehicle that is passing another car/truck/bus, and this is only a 2 lane road. I just couldn't help myself. I would hear the tooting of the horn and look up. It was like I was torturing myself with seeing how close we get to hitting someone else. In saying that, if I am to do the same route again (which I am hoping is highly likely), I would take the bus all over again. So amazing driving along the country side, seeing all of the little houses up on stilts in the water, and the rice paddies with all of the water buffalo, and even a ride on the barge across the river.


Arrival in Phnom Penh. A lot bigger than what I had imagined, and arriving at the bus stop, my hotel pick up not there waiting like he was supposed to, already got me in a bad mood with the city. I had made friends with a German couple, and they were my saviors with the good old Lonely Planet. I had no idea where my guesthouse was! We got in to negotiations with a tuktuk driver, and they dropped my off at my place before continuing on to their room. They had mentioned that they had looked at staying at the same place, but had changed their mind to somewhere closer in to town. I wish I had been that wise. I was staying at Sunday Guesthouse, which had been one of the top picks from the LP. I wish that I had read the reviews before staying there, as it is made my time in Phnom Penh horrible. It was not close to anything, you had to take a tuktuk if you wanted to go in to the main part. And after the half an hour discussions just to get to the guesthouse in the first place, was not something that I was interested in doing. When I checked in there was no mention of the common areas, and I only found out about them after reading reviews online. Deciding I'd had a big enough day, I booked my bus to Siem Reap for early the following morning, and called it a night. 


I had just booked the bus through the guesthouse ($6USD to Siem Reap), and I wish that I had booked through one of the main bus companies. Literally the only westerner on the bus, with men coming up within a metre of me at the bus stop and just staring at me. Being a girl, I cried quietly to myself for a few minutes, then told myself to harden up, put my headphones in and ignored everyone else. The bus ride was much the same as the previous day, around 6 hours, and driving no different, with the same beautiful scenery. 


Jordan with local kids at Pub Street

The bus arrived in Siem Reap a couple of hours late, and worry levels went to extreme, there were tuktuk drivers everywhere and I was thinking my hotel pickup guy wouldn't have waited around. Relief was massive as I saw a little sign with my name pop up. The last thing I feel like doing after 6-8 hours on the bus is haggle with a tuktuk driver. 

Street party at Pub Street


Cruising through Siem Reap on the way to Rosy's Guesthouse, I already had a better feel about Cambodia.  I organised going to Angkor Wat the following morning, meeting the tuktuk driver at 5am. Rosy's already feels a million times better with a bar and restaurant on the ground floor. My room is a palace compared to the previous night, and it is only $4USD more.


Bags dumped in the room and I head downstairs to the restaurant. Since I went on hunger strike on the bus, I tuck in to some Amok - the local curry and an Anchor (I always drink the local beers in the relevant country). Within an hour had made friends, and set off to Pub Street, which was a 10 minute walk down the river. Around Pub Street, there are other alley ways and streets with a range or restaurants and street food. We made our way down Pub Street, which was packed. The street is closed off and there is just people everywhere. Restaurants and clubs pumping their music out on the street. We ended up at one bar that was selling their drinks on the street and had a band outside, so it was literally a street party. 


Following morning. Epic Fail. Woke up at 6.30, alarm well and truly slept through. Since I had already missed sunrise at Angkor Wat, I sleep a few more hours and then face the temples. I easily found another tuktuk driver and for $14USD we were on our way to the temples. I know that I have said this in almost every post, but arriving in to Angkor is surreal. People can spend days and days going to different areas of Angkor, I just wanted to check out the main spots. The rough tour I look was Ta Prohm (where Angelina shot Tomb Raider), Ta Keo, Terrace of Elephants, Bayon and Angkor Wat. The tombs are quite crowded and it's hard to get decent photos, but so amazing to be there. Angkor Wat is grand, with a massive moat going around tho outside, but parts of it are being renovated and they have green scaffolding around parts of it, which ruins photos. The temples and Siem Reap itself are so beautiful. I highly recommend going there. Females - wear a t-shirt and long pants though, as you are not allowed in to some of the temples if you are dressed inappropriately (speaking from experience, but just gives me a reason to go back!).


After a long day in the heat walking around, I walked myself down to get some street food and visit the night markets, to pick up some beautiful Cambodian silk scarves and other nick-naks, have a foot massage and call it a night. Next day was another early wake up call to get the bus to Bangkok. 

Phnom Penh was a let down on this occasion, but I want to go back there to get a different experience from it in a better hotel. Siem Reap, my favourite place I have visited. I could have stayed there forever. 

Looking of Angkor Wat from the hot air balloon


Tomb Raider shot!
Ta Keo. Very hot after climbing all those stairs to the top!
Angkor Wat


Friday, November 25, 2011

Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

21-24 Nov 2011

Now the travel was really getting under way. I had spent the weekend in Brisbane saying goodbyes, but was utterly exhausted the whole time and coming down with a cold. I was so thankful to be on the plane leaving Darwin after a 9 hour stop over. Not the most thrilling airport to wait that long at. Bonus about the wait, was I got talking to the girl next to me on the plane (Jaine), first friend made! 


Arriving at Ho Chi Minh airport was not what I had imagined. I had expected a little airport that you walk off the plane on to the tarmac, but how I was wrong! I think that I had underestimated Vietnam as a whole, and was really surprised at how big it was


Love street food
I was staying at Kims Hotel, which I can highly recommend. I think the room was about $24USD a night, and was really nice, and in a good location. I had an airport transfer, and Jaine came back with me to see if they had a room, as she hadn't booked anywhere. We both settled in to the hotel for the night, as it was about 2am by this time. 


As soon as I woke up I ran to the balcony to see what HCM had in store for me. Scooters. What seemed like millions and millions of scooters. Jaine and I set off to find some pho for breakfast, and made our way to the markets. The shopping didn't interest us too much, but we took a lot of photo's walking around the seafood and meat section in the markets. On walking to the markets, we got to experience crossing the road in HCM. Wow. I had read reviews that you just put your head down and walk. And that's pretty much what you do. The scooters swerve around you, but you have to keep an eye out for cars. 


Jaine went and checked in to a backpackers down the road, and then we met back up and went to find a massage. The lady at Kim's had suggested a place in a hotel down the road, so off we set to indulge in the wonderful world of cheap massages. Warning bells should have started ringing when the sign outside the suggested hotel listed "Massage, Sauna, Jacuzzi". We walked very quickly out of the hotel after the lady informed that it was "man only massage". Very cautious for our next venue, we made sure that we found a "spa". Our luck was looking up as we weren't turned away from the spa, and we almost high-fived. That excitement soon disappeared as we were led in to the rooms and girls in little short red skirts walked in to the room. The massage didn't turn out to be dodgy, but the giggling from the next room and the expectation for a big tip told us we hadn't stumbled in to the most innocent of places.  


Now it was time for a drink. We found a street between both of our hotels, and managed to follow the happy hours, people watching, sharing stories, and turning away street sellers. We then stumbled in to Le Pub, where we ended up meeting a Scottish couple, and joining a pub quiz team (with the most ridiculous questions ever, and went on for 4.5 hours). I bailed out after 2 and a half hours, but our team went on to win the pub quiz! I think everyone else had dropped out since it had gotten so late. 


The next day we went to the Cu Chi tunnels, which had been recommended by my friend Erica. I had seen a photo of Erica while she was down in the tunnels, her face drained of colour and fear in her eyes. The tunnels were set up during the war, and the Vietnamese used the tunnels for protection, living and fighting. They went metres underground and went on for 75 miles. We walked around the site where there are examples of traps and weapons from the war, then we got to fire guns (was very rushed though), and then we hit the tunnels. Having never felt claustrophobic before, I didn't see why this would change now. I was about the 4th one to go in to the tunnels, and all started out fine. Then it started getting hotter. And hotter. And the tunnel got narrower. Here you are, crouched over in half with a 10cm each side of you in a tunnel 2 metres under ground. All of a sudden we approached a bend, and the section of the tunnel I was in didn't have any light reaching it. That's when the photo of Erica flashed back in to my head, and I knew I wouldn't be looking much better now. Luckily there were exit's around every 20metres, and I was out of there at the sight of the next one. 


 




















Another meeting at Le Pub, with our new friends, and more drinks and stories. I was off to Cambodia the next day at 7am, so it was time to say farewell for now, Vietnam. 


 

Watching the world go by at Le Pub


Friday, November 18, 2011

Rarotonga, Cook Islands


As written for OE Travel Blogs...

24 Oct - 18 Nov 2011

Having finished working in Sydney and planning my move to London, I had decided that I need a few months to travel to unwind and see the world. After my first stop to New Zealand to say goodbye to friends and family, I set off to Rarotonga to see my good friend who had moved to the Cook Islands 6 months previously.

Landing in Rarotonga after midnight and greeted by the token guy playing his guitar (apparently he is at the airport to welcome every plane in) I didn’t get a chance to see what beauty lay around me. My friend Charlotte had a family home right on the beach, so I awoke to the waves crashing on the beach and ROOSTERS. Very crow happy roosters that felt the need to cock-a-doodle-doo through the whole night. Safe to say I got used to sleeping with ear plugs in. 

This is where my tough life started. Sitting on the balcony eating fresh papaw with the tall jagged peaks behind us, and the sea only 20metres away. This was going to be a very hard month! We set off on the scooter (main mode of transport on the island) down to Muri Lagoon where my friend runs Workout on Water - a yoga class on stand up paddleboards (SUPs). Having never been on a SUP before, it was so surreal to be floating out on the picture perfect lagoon, with tropical fish swimming beneath you as you went through a series of yoga poses.  Muri Lagoon has a number of water sports available like kite boarding, kayaking, SUP hire to cruises that take you to a protected snorkelling spot as they sing you traditional island songs on ukulele’s. A great spot to relax and take in the scenery at Muri is Sails restaurant.

Rarotonga is one of the bigger islands of the Cooks, but it only takes around 40mins to go around the whole island by scooter. Setting off from Muri Lagoon we started our island ride anti-clockwise on a beautiful morning, first stop at Avarua, the islands capital. Everyone is so lovely and friendly in Rarotonga, and with the sale of tip-top ice cream and bluebird chips, it would be easy to confuse yourself with being in a small New Zealand community.

Continuing past Avarua, you pass the airport, where the road passes between the sea and the runway, making it popular for people to come and stand in the jet stream if you know the plane schedules. 5 minutes around from the airport is “black rock” – which is a black rock jutting out from the white sandy beach, sitting about 3 metres above the sea. Having gone there one occasion with Charlotte’s cousin, he told me stories of jumping off the rock when he was younger on holiday on the island. After much discussion with who was going to jump in first, we decided to test the depth. Greatest idea of the century as the water was not even up to his waist.

Around the island further you pass numerous resorts and beaches, one being Aro’a Beachside Inn, which is home to Shipwreck Hut – one of my favourite bars in the world. It sits on the beach, with the most amazing sunsets. The owners are so friendly and chatty and the drinks are served in jam jars. It is really something to remember. Other spots on the island to look for are Marie Nui Gardens, a restaurant/café set back off the road in beautiful gardens, with tiki torches and fairy lights making the trees glow at night. Beaches by The Rarotongan and Fruits of Rarotonga boasting amazing clear waters and white sands, full of tropical fish for snorkelling.  If there has been rain recently, you can head up the road behind the abandoned Sheraton hotel and check out the waterfall. Those who are more game may want to take a dip, but make sure you’re covered head to toe with insect repellent!

You can head to the local markets in Avarua on a Saturday morning, which is a social event for the locals, with stalls of food, juices, breads, and local crafts to island pearls. Food you have to try is Ika Mata, the local dish. Made with fresh raw fish, the citrus juice that it is marinated in cook the fish so it is so tender and melts in your mouth. You can get it from the markets or almost any restaurant/café on the island. If you are starving, especially if it is 2am and you’ve just left the nightclub, check out Palace Burger. For $10NZD you can get a burger that is literally the size of your head, and tastes good (even when you’re sober).

Nightlife on the island mainly starts at Trader Jacks, then across to Whatever then finishes off at Rehab. Pretty good name for a nightclub I reckon! Clubs close every night at midnight except for Fridays, which they close at 2am. This leads to “afters” which are after parties that are decided on the night usually. Sunday is a pretty quiet day on the island with almost everything except eateries being closed until 5pm.

I went out on a sunset cruise on the sailboat the Southern Cross, which has an amazing view back on to the peaks of the island. Had I been a few weeks earlier, it would have been more of a whale sightseeing cruise, but unfortunately I had just missed them. For those who like to walk, there is a cross-island walk, which you can do, but since I was there for R and R, I just stuck to lying on the beach and going out on SUPs.

Spending a month on an island of 15,000 people was the perfect start to my world adventure. It is such a beautiful island with beautiful people. One regret that I have from my trip to the Cooks is not getting to one of the other islands, Aitutaki is a short flight away and is apparently amazing. I cannot wait to get back there, and see all of the amazing friends that I have made.

Sunset at Aro'a - Shipwreck Hiut
Jam jar drinks
Breakfast at Sails Muri Lagoon
Muri Lagoon


Beach at The Rarotongan
Snorkeling off Fruits of Rarotonga